We've entered the Yukon (or Yukon if you prefer, more on that later) and it's clear we're not in Kansas any more. Coming from a land built on industry, fishing, forestry and hydro power, you enter a much earlier era here, without factories, mills, dams, or development. The boreal forest, dense and untouched, stretches endlessly, unmarked by man. No hydro towers, no power lines, no clear cuts, no blemishes. Canada's last great unfettered rivers are here.
It's all about rivers in the north. The first white men came here in 1763 in search of more furs, traveling along the first nation's river routes. North West Company and Hudson Bay Company posts were at the confluence of important rivers - the Frances, the Pelly, the Porcupine. When gold was discovered in 1896, tens of thousands of would-be miners arrived here on the coast, hauled their kit overland, built boats and with various degrees of success sailed down the rivers. The Stikine, the Teslin, the Tagish all fed into the Yukon, and 1600 km downstream to Dawson. And again in 1943, spurred by Japanese invasion of the Aleutian Islands, the Americans arrived in droves to build a supply highway and oil pipelines to their airfields in Fairbanks. They built the Alaska Highway in 11 months, following the same river routes through the coast mountains. They all left their mark, these newcomers, in crumbling log cabins and gravel piles, and always by the river.
We've travelled another 400 km up the Alaska highway, from Watson Lake along beautiful Teslin Lake, to the road to Atlin. Long stretches of forest and lakes are only rarely punctuated by either derelict or soon to become derelict gas stations and resorts. Only those with enough imagination to create a cinnamon bun niche or a wildlife museum survive. These stops become multi-purpose, serving gas, diesel, food, phone, showers, and occasionally cabins, campground, tire repair and rarely mechanics, all powered by diesel generator on site. No wonder the showers cost $5!
Today we took a detour to see Atlin, 100 km down a mostly gravel road, back in BC. Surrounded by glacial mountains, and turquoise lake, it's clearly entitled to it's moniker the Shangri-la of the North. Stunning views, delightful history, quirky architecture, eccentric people - I thought it was more Nelson meets SaltSpring Island. Would love to come back for the arts and music festival in July!
Increasing amounts of wildlife in the past couple days too - bears, bison, mountain goats, one rapidly retreating caribou, one red fox, and plenty of grouse. We were hoping to veer off to the north along Hwy 4, the Campbell Highway, but it sounded too wet and muddy. Three highways are currently closed due to flooding, including the Dempster which we need to drive to Inuvik next week. We've stayed on the Alaska Highway instead, which hasn't in fact been a hardship, but I keep imagining the great herds of caribou and moose that we might have seen along the Campbell. Perhaps if I picture the grizzly bears strolling through the campsites we've missed I'll feel a little better!
Tonight we are alone again, by a deep blue lake, in another perfect Yukon campsite. Nice sites, free firewood (which Norbert likes), and clean and cute outhouses (which please me). (The outhouses in the Yukon are so sweet - painted dark green, they all have a large vestibule surrounded in white painted lattice. Sort of 'the outhouse your grannie might build'.) If the wind dies down, we might even have fish! Who could ask for more?
Posted in Whitehorse June 4
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| The dock in Atlin BC, looking across Atlin Lake to the west. |
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| The road to Atlin - another 60 km of gravel, but sensational views. |
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| The Canol road, built by the US military in 1940's to develop a pipeline connecting the oil wells in Norman Wells NWT to Whitehorse in order to supply the Alaska Highway, is littered with abandoned vehicles. The pipeline cost $134million and was only used for 2 years. The original Boondoggle! |
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| Gorgeous site on Atlin Lake, but too windy to stay. |
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| Downtown Atlin, pop. 350. It's absolutely stunning scenery, but in the way back of beyond. |
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