I'm finding it hard to believe that we're on the homeward leg now, heading south down the Stewart-Cassiar Highway in BC. We really enjoyed our last few days in Whitehorse. It's a town I could live in - lovely setting nestled on a bench above the Yukon River, surrounded by rolling hills of pine forest. Coffee shops, bakeries, library, rec center and really nice people. There's a very large Francophone community, partly because of the federal government offices, and an air of sophistication and education that is missing throughout Alaska and most of the north. We decided we'd have to come back to see what it's like in winter as well!
We spent a great day biking along the Yukon with a friend from North Van who now lives in Whitehorse. Pretty challenging trails, but great views of the canyon. I was a bit concerned that one small mistake would send me into the river and I'd find myself in Dawson City again!
We've said farewell to Yukon now, and crossed again from the Arctic watershed into the Pacific. We're taking a different route home, heading south along the western edge of BC. The highway is gorgeous - narrow, twisty, quiet, and incredibly scenic. Yesterday we met a big male moose crossing the road, several ruffed grouse (they stop and dither half way across, unlike the moose who bolts once he sees us), and a big black wolf (or a very lost domestic dog.) The campground we stayed in on Boya Lake had canoes for rent, so we fished (unsuccessfully) and watched beavers, otters, loons, and an osprey on the lake. More wildlife in one day than most of the holiday!
The scenery is spectacular here - black volcanic cones rising above ancient sea beds, pink and grey granite mountains fissured with deep green valleys, sparkling rivers sliding into blue-green lakes. Tonight we are camped in a moosie looking meadow, above a shallow bay that opens into a deep mountain lake. Norbert has spent a happy hour with his fly rod out beyond the reeds, and there's three fat rainbow trout in the pan. We'll take our time for the next few days and enjoy the end of summer up here.
We have only one more week of blissful carefree travel before we have to make the transformation into civilized folk again. Although I long for a shower that's all my own, I know I'll miss the sound of the wind in the trees at night, and the uncluttered view from our windows. I love the brisk morning air outside our cozy bed, and the night sky sparkling when I go out for a last pee. I feel more connected to the seasons, the weather, the moon and the stars than I ever do in the city. Luckily we can continue to travel, and many more days and nights lie ahead.
Again, such strong imagery in your writing, Liz. I find myself relaxing, and daydreaming, as I read.
ReplyDeleteSummer comes to a close. Today was brilliant, calm, and warm, and I went on a long-ish bicycle ride with my brother and sister-in-law on Galiano, followed by a boating loop down through the Penders (with a stop for a drink at Poet's cove). Judith's in Vancouver for a couple of days. But tomorrow's forecast calls for rain, and rain again for the rest of the week.
I'm sure you'll enjoy your last blissful week, and I look forward to seeing you soon after that.